1748-87 ROYAL NAVY LIEUTENANT'S TUDOR ROSE

Color: Dark Brown with A Green Undertone.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece Impressed Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 15.93mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Repousse, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: The Tudor Rose was the symbol for Royal Feuds. From 1748 to 1767 a gilded brass button with a Tudor Rose was used on all Undress Uniforms, and Plain Domed buttons were used for Full Dress. In 1767, the full dress code was abolished, and this button became the standard on all Lieutenant's uniforms up until November 17, 1787. In 1788, the Tudor Rose button for Lieutenants was abolished, and replaced with Anchor buttons. The Tudor Rose in this example still has a crystal clear image and impression, and retains a good amount of gilt. The surface does show corrosion, but the design is still strong. The Hexagonal shape is much more scarce then the commonly found round variety.
Reverse Button Analysis: This button has a one piece casting for the reverse shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact.

Excavated By J. Baldwin in a camp near St. Augustine, Florida.~
The RJ. Silverstein Collection.

1748-87 ROYAL NAVY LIEUTENANT'S TUDOR ROSE - A NON FLAG RANK OFFICER (WITHOUT WREATH)

Color: A Flat Silver with Green Encrustations.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Engraved design, White Metal.
Size: 20mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Repousse, Strong Impressions.
Robert's Comments: The button's pattern depicts a Tudor Rose engraved in the center. The engraved pattern is set on a flat plain field with no edge border. The Planchet is still solid and flat, and shows no metal fatigue or deterioration. The silver color appears to be uniform, and there appears to be some green encrustations covering the surface. Fortunately, the button seems to be free of any harsh scratches or abrasions. There are also no signs of pits or micro porosity. Overall, this is a good example with merit.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a loop shank reverse. The loop is original and intact, but bent downward.

Mid-1760's to Post Rev FRENCH COLONIAL TROOPS & MARINES IN RHODE ISLAND

Color: A Coppery Brown with Algae Green.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Brass.
Size: 17mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief.
Robert's Comments: From the Mid-18th Century forward, the anchor has become the standard pattern in identifying the French Colonial Troops & Marines; which belonged to the Ministere de la Marine - the Department of the Navy-. The troupes de la Marine was a separate little army that originated out of the French Metropolitan Army. The button pictured is the small size enlisted man's pattern, and shows a raised anchor within a double rope border. This example still has a solid planchet with a strong image of an Anchor within a Rope border. The surface does show some weathering, and porous properties, but overall it's still an exceptional example for being a 250 year old sea weathered button.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a Bird Cage style shank. The shank is original and intact.

This was excavated in Canada.~
The Isabela Collection.~

Isabela's Notes: All French Colonial Troops wore blue coats while serving in America. Infantry units used white metal buttons, and Artillery units used yellow metal buttons, but all buttons were stamped with an Anchor.~

1775-90 CONTINENTAL NAVY AND MARINES

Color: A Dark Pewter Grey.
Metal: 1-Piece, Slightly Convex, Raised Design, Cast Pewter.
Size: 24mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet, Strong High Relief.
Robert's Comments: This is a very rare French design for an officer's pattern. This was used by officers in either the Continental Navy or Marines. The button's pattern depicts a high relief barbed Anchor, that is set within a raised concentric ring. Surrounding the ring is a single rope border which is above a beveled down edge. Unfortunately, it is impossible to attach any kind of exact date to the manufacturing and use of this style pattern. We theorize it could have been made anytime from 1775-1790, or even a little earlier or later. This style could even have even been used for 25 years, we just don't know. Since there was no official regulation in the Continental Navy or Marines on which manufacturer's pattern an officers had to use, this leaves us uncertain to patterns start or use dates. In the early years, an officer purchased and used what ever they wished. So an officer could have worn an American, British, or French manufactured button.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a One-Piece Casting with a boss and loop shank. The loop shank is original, but has decayed through on the top middle portion. The boss portion is still strong. The surface appears corroded and had a coarse bumpy texture.

This was excavated in Massachusetts.~
The Dale Collection.

NAVY OFFICER'S BUTTON

Color: A Golden Brown.
Metal: 2-Piece, Raised Design, Gilded Copper Repousse.
Size: 26.20mm.
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Exceptional Planchet casting, Exceptional High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: Fallou's book shows this style was officially adapted by both the American & French Naval Officers by 1800. Some people have theorized that this pattern could have been used as far back as the end of the American Revolution. Don T. did note to me that the anchors were usually barbed, and a slightly different style for Continental Navy Officers. From my collecting knowledge, bone back officer's patterns usually date from around the rev war era, to about 30 years after. This button is definitely of French manufacture, but was purchased from a family in Rhode Island who's Great 3x Grandfather served in the Continental Navy. So this is an example of an American Officer choosing a French Manufacture button to where on his uniform. The button's pattern depicts a large anchor in the center, which is encompassed by a small thin concentric ring. Outside of the ring is a rope style edge border with a beveled outside edge. The rope edge border also loops through the anchor's top ring. The high relief pattern is set on a plain flat field with a beveled edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is 2-Piece button with a Bone Back. This would have used cat gut cord for the attachment.

The Isabela Collection.~

1774-87 BRITISH CAPTAIN AND COMMANDERS BUTTON

Color: Brass Yellow with An Algae Green border.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Impressed Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 23.8mm, 56.5 Grains.
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Exceptional Planchet Casting, Exceptional Impressions.
Robert's Comments: This is an English manufactured button that was intended for an officer in the Royal Navy, but as commerce goes, a garment maker in America used them and was then supplied to his customers. This button was recorded as being used by an American Naval officer from the Connecticut, who served in the Continental Navy during the American Revolution. After the Regulation of July 30, 1774, the Royal Navy Captains and Commanders wore flat gilded brass buttons such as these. The earlier style domed buttons were replaced by this new pattern. The old ones were not totally discarded, but adopted for the midshipman in 1787, and continued to be used until the beginning of the 19th century. There are a number of variations to this pattern, but the early Gilded Brass buttons were probably only used by the Captains and Commanders. After consulting Don Troiani, he explained to me, "there was no official regulation on the pattern of the button used for officers in the Continental Navy. They purchased what ever they wished. An American officer had the choice of using either American, British, or French manufactured Anchor buttons. The only regulation is that they had to be yellow brass ones. The same buttons were worn on dress and undress clothing. It is the number, and the arrangement that will vary." This button's pattern depicts a raised anchor stamped in the center. There is a chain coming off the anchor's top ring on the left hand-side. The chain goes under a straight stock, and then over and under the shaft, then under the left fluke, falls below the crown, and then goes under the right fluke to off the side. This impressed pattern is set on a plain flat field with no edge border.
Reverse Button Analysis: A One Piece Casting for the Reverse Shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact.

Stacks Auctions January 2003.~
Harold Cobb/Descendants 1958 to 2003.~
Cobb Purchased this from J.J. Goldberg (B.G. Johnson) in 1961.~

Cobb thought this button was from an officer in the Connecticut navy during the American Revolutionary War. It was discovered in January, 1961 on a pair of white naval breeches that had been owned by Burdette G. Johnson of St. Louis, Missouri. Johnson had bought the breeches in Philadelphia years earlier. On the breeches were 12 small size Eagle and Star buttons GWI 12-B, and three naval buttons. Eleven of the 12 Eagle & Star buttons were sold to various collectors. One of the three naval buttons was sold to Sally Luscomb, and this one went to Cobb. The breeches, with one Eagle & Star and the one Naval Officer's Fouled Anchor button ( still attached), were sold to DeWitt, who exhibited them in his museum in Hartford, Connecticut.~

1774-87 BRITISH CAPTAIN AND COMMANDER'S BUTTON

Color: A Charcoal Brown with Gold & Green Encrustations.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Impressed Design, Gilt Brass.
Size: 22mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Exceptional Impressions.
Robert's Comments: Understanding the different patterns used is not the same thing as understanding the different variations of a pattern. I illustrate this point with different examples to help people understand the different varieties of Royal Navy Buttons that were in use. Until the regulation of July 30, 1774, Captains and Commanders wore Plain gilded domed buttons. After 1774, they wore flat Brass (Gilded) yellow buttons, that had an anchor and cable engraved in the surface. The 1774 pattern which was used by Captains was then later adopted for midshipman in 1787, and used through the beginning of the 19th century. Even though there are a number of variations to this design, the gilded brass ones were probably just limited to use by the Captains and Commanders during the early years. The button's pattern depicts a V-Shaped Anchor with inner lines. The rope comes off the anchor's top ring on the left hand-side. The rope goes under the stock, over and under the shaft, under the left fluke, below the crown, under the right fluke then off the side. The impressed pattern is set upon a plain flat field with no edge border.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is unfortunately missing. No back mark.

This was Excavated in Boston Massachusetts.~
The Isabela Collection.~

1774-87 BRITISH CAPTAIN AND COMMANDER'S BUTTON

Color: A Charcoal Brown with Gold & Green Encrustations.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Impressed Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 22mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Exceptional Impressions.
Robert's Comments: This specimen is a slightly different die variant then the one pictured above. This button features a smaller anchor and top ring. I list this one to show there seems to be a variety of buttons produced with the same pattern, just minor variations. Most likely one when die broke down from fatigue, another was cut. The rope comes off the anchor's top ring on the left hand-side. The rope goes under the stock, over and under the shaft, and then under the left fluke, and fish hooks below the crown, then goes under the right fluke then off the side. The impressed pattern is set on a plain flat field with no edge border.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a flat one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is unfortunately missing. No back mark.

1787-1800's OFFICER OR MIDSHIPMEN'S BUTTON

Color: A Rusty Brown.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Impressed Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 21mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Strong Impressions.
Robert's Comments: This is another one of the many die variants an officer would wear in the Royal Navy. As noted before, after 1774, they wore flat Brass (Gilded) yellow buttons, that had an anchor and rope engraved in the surface. The 1774 pattern which was used by Captains was then later adopted for midshipman in 1787, and used through the beginning of the 19th century. The button's pattern depicts a foul anchor with decorative lines. The rope comes off the anchor's top ring on the right hand-side. The rope goes under the stock, shaft, and left fluke, and hangs below the crown. The impressed pattern is set on a flat plain field with no edge border.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a flat one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is unfortunately missing. No back mark.

1780's-1815 BRITISH CAPTAIN AND COMMANDER'S BUTTON

Color: A Deep Coppery Red.
Metal: 1-Piece, Convex, Impressed Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 19.59mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Exceptional Impressions.
Robert's Comments: This specimen is another die variant used during the early 19th Century. The button's pattern depicts a large thin lined anchor in the center, with a rope coming off the top ring's right hand-side. The rope goes under the stock, and then under the shaft 2x, under the right fluke, and fish hooks below the crown, and then curls up under the left fluke ending toward the shaft. The impressed pattern is set on a plain convex field with no edge border.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. TREBLE GILT STANDARD. COLOUR rm.

The Isabela Collection.~

1774-87 BRITISH CAPTAIN AND COMMANDERS CUFF BUTTON

Color: A Golden Brown.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Stamped Design, Brass.
Size: 14mm.
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Exceptional Planchet Casting, Exceptional Impressions.
Robert's Comments: This is another variation of the raised anchor pattern that was used early on by the Royal Navy. The button depicts the outline of a fouled anchor with a top ring hanging over the front. There are 5 raised knobs within the top bar. The button is in superb condition, and shows a strong image of the pattern.  A wonderfully preserved example.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. No backmark.

This was Excavated in the State of Delaware near a ship landing site.~

The table below shows how a specific pattern was used over time by diferent officers:

Capt./Commander 1774 to 1787
RN Master & Mate 1787 to 1807
RN Surgeon 1787 to 1805
RN Purser 1787 to 1807
RN Warrant Officer 1787 to 1860
RN Midshipman 1787 to 1812
RN Volunteer Gr.I 1787 to 1812

*RN is the designation for Royal Navy.~

1774-87 BRITISH CAPTAIN AND COMMANDER'S BUTTON

Color: A Muddy Brown with Gold Design Remnants.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Impressed Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 22mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet, Good Impressions.
Robert's Comments: This is another pattern variation that was used by officers. The button's pattern depicts a large impressed lined anchor set on a plain field. There is a rope dangling off the anchor's small top ring on the left hand-side, and then wraps over and under the anchor repeatedly and ends in a fish hook underneath. As with other Captain's and Commander's buttons, this has a slightly different style fouled anchor and rope. Since there was so many manufactured pattern variations, we could say that Captain or Commander's personal preference played a role in for their choice of the patterns that they used.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. No backmark.


This was Excavated in the State of Delaware near a ship landing site.~

The table below shows how a specific pattern was used over time by diferent officers:

Capt./Commander 1774 to 1787
RN Master & Mate 1787 to 1807
RN Surgeon 1787 to 1805
RN Purser 1787 to 1807
RN Warrant Officer 1787 to 1860
RN Midshipman 1787 to 1812
RN Volunteer Gr.I 1787 to 1812

*RN is the designation for Royal Navy.~

1774-87 BRITISH CAPTAIN AND COMMANDERS CUFF BUTTON

Color: A Dark Brown with Greenish White Encrustations.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece Stamped Design, Brass.
Size: 13.54mm. Cuff
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Good Impressions.
Robert's Comments: This is a nice excavated example of an officers cuff button. The button depicts the outline of a fouled anchor with a top ring hanging over the front. There are 5 raised knobs within the top bar. This is a strong excavated example, and has a great color combination of brown and green giving it a nice aged feel. Got to love dug buttons!
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. No backmark.

This was Excavated in Water at Fort Erie.~
The Isabela Collection.~

1774-87 CAPTAIN AND COMMANDER'S CUFF BUTTON

Color: A Coppery Brown.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Impressed Design, Copper.
Size: 17mm.
Variation: Hexagon
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Good Impressions.
Robert's Comments: This is another variation of a fouled anchor and cable pattern that happen to be dug right here in the northeastern united states. We previously demonstrated (example R-2) the First Tudor Rose pattern in a hexagonal shape. This pattern would have most likely replaced that one shortly after 1787, give or take a few years of use. As like out previous cuff example, this is also an extremely rare button that features a hexagonal shape. The Copper planchet on this button still appears to be solid, but does show some metal deterioration along the edge with some chipping. The surface is corroded, and has pockets of micro porosity. Fortunately, the design still shows a nice deep impression, and a clear image of the fouled anchor and rope. Overall this is an excellent dug button, and a rarer find over the usual round navy buttons.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a One-Piece Casting for the Reverse Shank. The shank is original, straight and intact. The surface appears course, and has a granular texture.

1770-1820 HER MAJESTY'S COAST GUARD

Color: A Coppery Brown with Beige and Orange Specs.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Copper.
Size: 18.61mm.
Variation: Crown & Garnet
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief.
Robert's Comments: I found this button very difficult to date accurately. Several English Royal Navy Button web sites conflict with the issue and use. Historically speaking, most Crowns were not added to the Royal Navy's buttons until the official regulation of 1812; but this is Her Majesty's Coast Guard, which is completely different. After some more historical research, I found out Her Majesty's Coast Guard O/Rs aided the Royal Navy in a "non official capacity" during the American Revolution. In what capacity, one could only theorize. If this button's crown pattern holds to the 1770's issue, this would be the earliest use of a Crown motif adapted for any kind of Naval Button prior to the official regulation of 1812. This button is one of the better preserved examples, being most found are deteriorated. The button's pattern depicts a small fouled anchor in the center of a Royal Garter which is surmounted by a crown. In the garter is, "COAST GUARD" in capital letters. The high relief pattern is set on a lined field with a small beveled edge border.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, and intact, but bent over.

Excavated on the coast of Florida.~
The Isabela Collection.~

1787-95 ROYAL NAVY CAPTAIN / COMMANDERS & LIEUTENANT'S BUTTON

Color: A Brassy Brown with Gold Undertones.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 29.86mm x 30mm.
Variation: Stippled Field / Slanted Oval
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief.
Robert's Comments: This is another variation of an officer's pattern that depicts a slanting foul anchor set upon a lined field. There is a rope dangling off the anchor's top ring on the left hand-side. This goes over the stock, then wraps under and over the shaft, and then ends in a small fish hook underneath the left fluke. The high relief pattern is set on a Stippled field, with a large flat slanted oval border that has a thin roped edge. When this pattern was issued, the Lieutenants would start to use the same pattern as the captains.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight and intact. No bckmark.

Excavated on land at Fort Erie.~
The Isabela Collection.~

1795-1812 ROYAL NAVY CAPTAIN / COMMANDER & LIEUTENANT'S BUTTON

Color: A Golden Brown Mix.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 22.99mm x 23.04mm.
Variation: Lined Field
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: This pattern was adapted a few years after the Slanted Anchor by Captains/Commanders and Lieutenants. The old pattern may have still been used for a short time, but this pattern would have been eventually replaced with their next set of new garments. The button's pattern depicts a large fouled anchor in high relief. There is a rope or chain coming off the anchor's top ring on the left hand-side, goes under a slightly slanted stock, and then goes under the shaft 2x, and then ends in a small fish hook underneath the left fluke. The high relief pattern is set on a lined field, with a large flat oval border that has a thin outside rope edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight and intact. STANDARD. COLOUR*TREBLE.  GILT

Excavated on land at Fort Erie.~
The Isabela Collection.

1787-95 CAPTAINS & COMMANDERS ?/ 1805-1812 ROYAL NAVY SURGEON

Color: A Golden Brown Mix.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 21.89mm.
Variation: Rayed Field.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: This rayed pattern is another good example of how a button could have been used by commissioned officers for 25 years. This pattern is a cross over between the different officer's posts, and is a little hard to pinpoint the exact year of issue and use. Albert's lists this on page 90 as a Commissioned Officers pattern from 1787 to 1795. Tice's back mark book lists this as 1790 to 1820 on page 154. Three English Navy Button sites lists this as 1805-12 Royal Navy Surgeon's button, or an early 1790's Captain's button. The button's pattern depicts a large slightly barbed fouled anchor with a relaxed top ring. The high relief pattern is set on a rayed field with a large flat oval border that has a thin outside rope edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight and intact. TURNER & DICKINSON HAMMOND . rmdc

The Isabela Collection.~

1807-25 ROYAL NAVY MASTER'S BUTTON

Color: A Two Tone Shoe Polish Brown.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Copper.
Size: 21.64mm.
Variation: Rope off Anchor
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: This is a Royal Navy Masters button that was in use from 1805 to 1807. There are a few other later variations of this pattern which were used to designate other types of officers, and those other pattern variations were used up until 1825. The Master's use of this pattern was very short lived, and is the only variation with the Rope off the Anchor. The button's pattern depicts a large barbed anchor in the center with two small anchors that flank each side. There is a rope dangling off the anchor's top ring on the left hand-side. This then wraps around the stocks left side, then under the shaft 2x, and ends in a fish hook underneath the crown. The high relief pattern is set on an inside lined field. Encompassing all three anchors is a thin inside rope border that is followed by a wide flat oval border with a thin outside rope edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is unfortunately missing. TURNER & DICKINSON HAMMOND . rmdc

Excavated in the Water at Fort Erie.~
The Isabela Collection.~

1807-25 ROYAL NAVY ASSIST. /MASTER'S BUTTON

Color: A Two Tone Shoe Polish Brown.
Metal: High Relief, 1-Piece Copper.
Size: 22.64mm.
Variation: No Rope or Chains
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: This is a Royal Navy Assistant Masters or Masters button that was in use from 1807 to 1825. The Assistant Master's use of this pattern was last for a number of years. This pattern's variation does not have any ropes or chains coming off any of the anchors. The button's pattern depicts a large barbed anchor in the center with two smaller anchors that flank each side. The high relief pattern is set on an inside lined field. Encompassing all three anchors is a thin inside rope border that is then followed by a wide flat oval border with an outside thin rope edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. TURNER & DICKINSON Crown Motif.

The Isabela Collection.~

1807-12 ROYAL NAVY PURSER'S BUTTON

Color: A Rusty Brown.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Copper.
Size: 22.05mm.
Rarity: R-5
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Good High Relief Pattern.
Variation: Slanted Cross Anchors / Round Edge Border.
Robert's Comments: This button's pattern is depicted by two slanted cross anchors. Each anchor has a rope coming off the top ring's right hand-side that wraps around each of the anchor's shafts repeatedly, and dangles beneath the crowns. The high relief pattern is set on a lined field with a round edge border.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is unfortunately bent, but is original and intact.

Excavated in the Water at Fort Erie.~
The Isabela Collection.~

1795-1803 French Marine Artillery

Color: A Rusty Orange-Brown.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Brass.
Size: 24mm. Coat Size
Variation: Cross Cannons / Liberty Night Cap
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good/Strong Planchet, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: This button was excavated as a coat and cuff pair in the low country of South Carolina in 2009. This is a real mystery on how it would have ended up there. This is one of my favorite French Republic Marine buttons. The button's pattern depicts a large fouled anchor with a pointed barb and skinny stylish flukes. There is a liberty night cap motif (Liberty Never Rests) rests on top of the anchor's top ring. The anchor sites in the cross hatch of two crossed cannons. Encompassing the anchor is France's new salutation, "Republique Francaise", which is written in capital letters. The outside edge border has a circling rope pattern with a thin exterior flat edge lip. The high relief pattern is set on a plain flat field. This button's pattern has wonderful symbolism for a fighting marine unit.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is flat one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is broken off, but part of the boss remains.

Excavated By Bill Cross in South Carolina 2009.~
The B. Cross Collection.

1795-1803 French Marine Artillery

Color: A Rusty Orange-Brown.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Brass.
Size: 17mm. Cuff Size
Variation: Cross Cannons / Liberty Night Cap
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good/Strong Planchet, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: This button was excavated as a coat and cuff pair in the low country of South Carolina in 2009. This is a real mystery on how it would have ended up there. This pattern is one of my favorite French Republic Navy / Marine buttons. The button's pattern is slightly different then the coats. It depicts a foul anchor with a straight stock, and pointed barb on the crown. There is a liberty night cap motif (Liberty Never Rests) rests on top of the anchor's top ring. Encompassing the anchor is France's new salutation, "Republique Francaise", which is written in capital letters. The outside edge border has a circling rope pattern with a thin exterior flat edge lip. The high relief pattern is set on a plain flat field.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is flat one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is intact, but crushed.

Dug By Bill Cross in South Carolina 2009.~
The B. Cross Collection.

NAVY OFFICER'S BUTTON

Color: A Flashy Gold.
Metal: 2-Piece, Raised Design, Gilded Copper Repousse.
Size: 18.25mm. Vest / Cuff Size
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Exceptional Planchet, Exceptional High Relief Pattern.
Robert's Comments: Fallou's book shows this style was officially adapted by both the American & French Naval Officers by 1800. Some people have theorized that this pattern could have been used as far back as the end of the American Revolution. Don T. did note to me that the anchors were usually barbed, and a slightly different style for Continental Navy Officers. From my collecting knowledge, bone back officer's patterns usually date from around the rev war era, to about 30 years after. This button is definitely of French manufacture, but was purchased from a family in Rhode Island who's Great 3x Grandfather served in the Continental Navy. So this is an example of an American Officer choosing a French Manufacture button to where on his uniform. The button's pattern depicts a large anchor in the center, which is encompassed by a small thin concentric ring. Outside of the ring is a rope style edge border with a beveled outside edge. The rope edge border also loops through the anchor's top ring. The high relief pattern is set on a plain flat field with a beveled edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is 2-Piece button with a Bone Back. This would have used cat gut cord for the attachment.

The Isabela Collection.~

Late 1790's-1800's AMERICAN NAVY BUTTON

Color: A Sea Foam Green Patina.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece Brass.
Size: 20mm.
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Excellent Planchet Casting. Strong Impressions.
Isabela's Notes: This is a very unusual early 19th Century American Navy Button, or possibly just custom made for a retired military officer. This rendition only shows "11" six pointed stars on the top field. This might be a key to dating this button to late 18th century. New York was actually the 11th state to join the union on July 26, 1788. The pattern shows a crude Federal Style Eagle with the addition of a Navy Anchor emblazoned on a very crude shield outline upon it's lower chest. The Eagle is clutching five arrow shafts, but only four tips fit within the design. The Laurel Stem is pretty standard for devices within Washington's Administrations time period. The tail and wing feathers also appear to be crude in design. I couldn't find the back stamp in Tice's book, but venturing the Double Gilt floral Back stamp and combination of only 11 stars would be early 1800's to me… Could be a little earlier…. just not 100%. The pattern indicates to me as late 1700's. Could it have been a design prototype?
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a One Piece Casting for the Reverse Shank. The Shank is original, straight, and intact.

Excavated in Maryland.~

~ Early 19th Century American Naval Buttons ~
 

1802-1810 Sixteen Star U.S. Navy

     By the early 1800's, America's Navy was already sailing the entire globe protecting it's citizen's interests for international commerce. Officer's Copper Repousse buttons with Bone or Wood backs were slowly replaced with a more durable brass constructed button. These flat brass one-piece buttons were primarily used up until the early 1830's, then a two-piece button started to debut. This new style offered convex obverses, and a more detailed design using raised relief patterns. This new construction prevailed throughout the manufacturing industry into the 20th century. There were some early pioneering two-piece Navy buttons in the late 1820's, but it wasn't until the 1830's to 1850's when the pattern was widely accepted, and used throughout the Navy. As you will see in the specimens below, several different American and English manufacturers produced their own depiction for the eagle & star design; but most of these were short lived, and then replaced with the newest design.

1798 to 1810 US Navy Button

Color: An Ochre of Browns and Greens.
Metal: 1-Piece, Raised Design, Gilt Brass.
Size: 23mm.
Albert's Number: NA 6-A: RV 35-50
Variation: Large Oval Shield / 13 Five-Pointed Stars
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Fair Planchet Casting, Fair High Relief Pattern.
Isabela's Notes: There are five known die variants for this pattern in the coat size, and one for the cuff size. All depict 13 five-pointed stars, but vary in the depiction of the eagle, anchor, and shield. This button's pattern depicts a standing eagle with up-raised wings facing left. There is a Large Oval Shield that has a fouled anchor on a lined field. The rope comes off the anchor's top ring on the left hand-side. The rope then goes under the stock, and then loops over the shaft twice, and then over the left fluke and ends in a fish hook below the crown. Encompassing the eagle is 13 Five-Pointed Stars around the buttons edge. The high relief pattern is set on a plain flat field.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a flat one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. CARIN & C / TREBLE GILT rm.

1810 to 1830's US Navy Button

Color: A Golden-Brown with Green Undertones.
Metal: Impressed, 1-Piece, Impressed Design, Cast Brass.
Size: 23mm.
Albert's Number: Similar to NA 32 Series Unlisted Variant - : RV 50
Variation: Large Thick Raised Anchor / Unique Rope Border/ 16 Five-Pointed Stars
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Strong Impressed Pattern.
Isabela's Notes: This Navy button would be very similar to Albert's NA 32 series, but minor differences in the number of stars and eagle's pattern. Albert NA 32 gives examples of 14 & 15 stars, but none 16. So a specimen might not have been available, or dug during his time. The button's pattern depicts an old style eagle standing with a "Goose Neck" facing left. There is a large oval shield over it's right wing. Within is a Large Thick Raised Anchor set on a lined field. There is a relaxed rope coming off the anchor's top ring on the right hand-side. The rope wraps under the Anchor's stock diagonally, and then under the lower shaft and right fluke and ends in a short fish hook below. As a decorative border, there is an inside Unique Rope Border that encompasses the large anchor. Encircling the eagle is 16 Five-Pointed Stars that go around the button's edge. The impressed pattern is set on a plain flat field with no edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a flat one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. No back mark.

1810 to 1820's US Navy Button

Color: Brown with Spots of Orange Oxidation.
Metal: 1-Piece, Slightly Convex Brass.
Size: 21mm.
Variation: 16 Six-Pointed Stars / Elongated Oval Shield
Albert's Number: NA 38:            RV 40
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief.
Isabela's Notes: This Navy button's pattern depicts a standing eagle facing right, with a federal shield on it's breast. There is another Elongated Oval Shield under the eagle's left wing with a large raised anchor pattern on a lined field. There is a rope or chain coming off the top ring of the anchor on the left hand side. Encompassing the eagle is 16 Raised Six-Pointed Stars encircling the periphery. George Armitage produced these buttons in the early 1800's. The high relief button is set on a plain slightly convex field with no distinguishable edge. The Best Quality back mark on the reverse dates around 1810.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The original shank is broken off. ARMITAGE PHILADELPHIA/BEST QUALITY 2 rings

Excavated in Bergen County, NJ.~

1810 to 1830's US Navy Officer's Button

Color: Tarnished Brass.
Metal: 1-Piece, Slightly Convex, Raised Design, Gilt Brass.
Size: 23mm.
Albert's Number: NA 41 RV 15
Variation: Small Slanted Oval Shape Shield / Plain Anchor / 13 Five-Pointed Stars
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Isabela's Notes: This is another example of an early US Navy pattern. The button's pattern depicts a standing eagle with upraised wings facing right. In this die variant there is a Small Slanted Oval Shape Shield, with the depiction of a Plain Anchor on a lined field. Encompassing the eagle is 13 Five-Pointed Stars around the button's edge. The high relief button is set on a plain slightly convex field with no distinguishable edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a slightly concave one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. THREE FEATHERS /WREATH / S rm.

1810 to 1830's US Navy Button

Color: Brass Yellow.
Metal: 1-Piece, Slightly Convex, Raised Design, Gilt Brass.
Size: 23mm.
Albert's Number: NA 57-B                RV 15
Variation: Goose Neck Eagle / Three Inside Tail Feathers / Large Slanted Oval Shield / Small anchor with A Slanted Stock.
Present Condition:  An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Isabela's Notes: This button's pattern depicts a Goose Neck Eagle standing on a cable looking to the right. This die variant shows three distinct tail feathers and lean slim wings. Under the eagle's left wing is a Large Slanted Oval Shield that depicts a Small Fouled Anchor that has a Slanted Stock. There is a rope that comes off the anchor's top ring on the right hand-side. The rope goes over the stock and then under the shaft and left fluke, and hangs in a fish hook racing right below the crown. Encircling the eagle is 16 Six-Pointed Stars on the button's edge. Even thought this pattern probably wasn't manufactured after 1810, it still was most likely used until a new replacement uniform was ordered with the newer style buttons. The high relief pattern is set on a plain convex field.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a slightly concave one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. TREBLE GILT / ORANGE rm.

1802 US Navy Button

Color: A Patchy Golden Brown.
Metal: 1-Piece, Convex, Raised Design, Gilt Brass.
Size: 23mm.
Variation: Slightly Slanted Oval Shield / Large Fouled Anchor / 16 Raised Six-Pointed Asterisk Type Stars.
Albert's Number: NA 57-D:                  RV 25
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief.
Isabela's Notes: This is another die variant in the series. This pattern depicts a slightly different style eagle. The button's pattern depicts an eagle standing on a cable looking right. Under the eagle's left wing is a Slightly Slanted Oval Shield. Depicted within the shield is a Large Fouled Anchor on a stippled field. There is a rope coming off the anchors top ring on the right hand-side. This goes under the stock, and then twists under the shaft, and left fluke, and then ends in a long fishhook passing under the crown and going all the way up to the right fluke. Encircling the eagle is 16 Raised Six-Pointed Asterisk Type Stars around the outside edge. The high relief pattern is set on a plain convex field. Albert notes this button was produced in 1802.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact.

1820's United States Navy Officer's Button

Color: A Golden Olive Brown
Metal: High Relief, 1-Piece Gilded Brass.
Size: 22.83mm.
Variation: Narrow Slanted Spade Shaped Shield / Small Raised Anchor / 13 Six-Pointed Stars.
Albert's Number: NA 62-E:        RV 20
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Exceptional Planchet Casting, Exceptional High Relief.
Isabela's Notes: This button was originally intended for officers. The button's pattern depicts a standing eagle facing right, with up-raised wings. Under the left wing is a Narrow Slanted Spade Shaped Shield. There is a Small Raised Anchor depicted within the shield on a lined field. There is a rope coming off the anchor's top ring on the right hand-side, and wraps under the stock, over and under the shaft, and then under the right fluke where it dangles below the crown. Encircling the eagle, there are 13 Six-Pointed Stars. The high relief pattern is set on a lined field with a small raised edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: A One-Piece Casting with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. .WILLIAM.WALLIS.EXTRA RICH.

The RJ Silverstein Collection.

1820's United States Navy Button

Color: A Light Gold With Sea foam Green.
Metal: High Relief, 1-Piece Gilded Brass.
Size: 22.59mm.
Variation: Small Wide Shield / Small Raised Anchor /16 Raised Six-Pointed Asterisk Type Stars.
Albert's Number: NA 66-A:            RV 15
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief.
Isabela's Notes: This high relief pattern is another die variant of the standing eagle facing right, with raised up-raised wings. Under the left wing is a Small Wide Shield that is spade shaped. There is a Small Raised Anchor depicted within on a lined field. There is a small rope coming off the anchor's top ring on the right hand-side. The rope goes under the stock and then under the shaft 2x, then under the right fluke off the edge. Encircling the eagle is 16 Raised Six-Pointed Asterisk Type Stars around the button's edge. The high relief pattern is set on a lined filed with a thin raised edge.
Reverse Button Analysis: A One-Piece Casting with a loop shank. The shank is original, and intact, but slightly bent upwards. I.MOORE & Co/TREBLE GILT STANDARD COL* Five Plumes Above RM /3 ring rmdc

The RJ Silverstein Collection.

Color: Brass Yellow.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Gilt Brass.
Size: 23mm. 
Albert's Number: NA 86-A.2:  RV 10
Variation: Rope Passes Left to Right / 13 Raised Five-Pointed Stars / Thin Rope Edge Border.
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Exceptional Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief Pattern. 
Isabela's Notes: This popular Navy Officer's button was made by at least nine different manufactures, and has two known die variants. One with the rope passing left to right, and the other with the rope passing right to left. This style pattern was known to be manufactured during the late 1820's, but was prevalent in use from the 1830's to the 50's. The button's pattern depicts an eagle at rest perched on the stock of an upright fouled Anchor facing left. The anchor's Rope Passes from Left to Right under the stock, and then hangs under the right fluke almost to the barb on the crown. In this variant, the anchor is a bit more pronounced, and shows thicker flukes. There are 13 Raised Five-Pointed Stars encircling the eagle around the inside border. This is followed by a Thin Rope Edge Border, which outlines a wide plain oval border with an outside pipe rope edge. The high relief inside pattern is set on a lined field. 
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a flat one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. rm * L & KENDRICK */EXTRA RICH inside rope ring rm.

1830's Navy Button

Color: A Golden Olive Brown
Metal: High Relief, 1-Piece Gilded Brass.
Size: 22.46mm.
Albert's Number: NA 87: RV 20
Variation: Barbed Anchor / 13 Five-Pointed Star / Pipe Rope Edge.
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Exceptional Planchet Casting, Exceptional High Relief.
Isabela's Notes: This one-piece button was part of the new transitional style (from an Eagle standing on the Flukes of an upright Anchor, to an Eagle resting upon the Stock of an upright Anchor) adapted by the U.S. Navy. This new style pattern was used throughout the 1830's and 40's. Some backmark research indicates this button was produced in the early 1830's.  We also know that W.H. Smith operated from the 1830's to around 1858. (W.H. Smith was an outfitter, and the buttons were manufactured by Scovill). The button depicts a perched eagle on an Barbed Anchor facing left. There are 13 Five-Pointed Stars encircling the eagle around the inside border. This is followed by a thin rope edge, which leads into a plain wide oval border with an outside Pipe Rope Edge. The high relief inside pattern is set on a lined field. 
Reverse Button Analysis: A one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, straight, and intact. W & H SMITH. TREBLE GILT four dot

The RJ Silverstein Collection.

1820's to 1830's The Revenue Marines

Color: A Golden Olive Brown
Metal: High Relief, 1-Piece Gilded Brass.
Size: 26 mm.
Variation: 13 Stars Within A Chevron.
Albert's Number: FD 1: RV 25 Isabela's: RV 100
Tice's Number: RM200A.2
 Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good Planchet Casting, Good Relief Pattern.
Isabela's Notes: To insure the U.S. Treasury received their payment of import duties, Congress established the Revenue Marines in 1790. There primary duties was to prevent smuggling, and ensure the collection of monies owed on imported goods. When the Civil War began, this service was brought under the Navy Department, and was renamed, The Revenue Cutter Service in 1863. Even though the Revenue Marines didn't officially adopt a pattern until 1834, which was the large Treasury Shield with balanced scales above a chevron with crosses or stars upon it, they still used their mixed version of a Treasury Shield with a Horizontal Naval Anchor above. This pattern was actually used as early as the 1820's. After the Civil War, the newly re-named "Revenue Cutter Service" buttons all bore the US initials on the obverse. In 1915, the Revenue Cutter Service combined all the services of lifesaving, marines inspection, lighthouse duties, and navigational services into what we call today the modern Coast Guard. The example above is the earliest known button to be worn by the Revenue Marine personal. There doesn't appear to be an officer's pattern that differentiates from personal. The button's pattern depicts a Treasury Shield with a horizontal fouled anchor on top. There is a short rope coming off the anchor's top ring that wraps partially around the anchor. Within the shield, there is a large upside down Chevron V with 13 stars inside. Above the chevron is a balanced scale, and under is a period type key. The high relief pattern is set on a lined field with a large flat oval shaped border, with a rope edge around the outer periphery.
Reverse Button Analysis: A One-Piece Casting with a loop shank. The original shank is bent upward. .*. U.STATES.*.REVENUE SERVICE rm

The RJ Silverstein Collection.

1851-65 United States Navy

Color: A Dirty Black.
Metal: 1-Piece, Slightly Concave, Raised Design, Hard Rubber.
Size: 32mm.
Albert's Number: NA 136-A.2: RV 3
Tice's Number: NA 241-A.1
Variation: Small Vertical Anchor / Periods Between Initials / Raised Rim Sew Holes.
Present Condition: A Non Excavated Example, Strong Planchet Casting, Strong High Relief Pattern.
Isabela's Notes: The navy purchased many of this type for it's enlisted men between 1851-65. There are three known die variants. The button's pattern depicts the initials, "U.S.N." arced above with the periods between the initials. Underneath, there are three beveled five-pointed stars stretching in a chevron V from the center to the raised border. There is a small vertical fouled anchor on the bottom. The rope comes off the anchor's top ring on the left, and then goes under the stock, then over the shaft, then under the right fluke, and finally dangles below. There are four large sew holes with with raised rims surrounding the center star. The high relief pattern is set on a stippled field with a large round edge border. Collector's seek double patent date backmarks.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is a one-piece button with four holes. NOVELTY RUBBER Co. / GOODYEAR'S PATENT. / 1851.

1802-1808 South Carolina Navy

Color: Rusty Brown with Green Encrustations.
Metal: Flat, 1-Piece, Raised Design, Gilded Brass.
Size: 23mm. Coat Size
Albert's: NA 10-B (Page 491) Isabela's RV 100
Variation: Two Headed Spread Eagle /
Present Condition: An Excavated Example, Good/Strong Planchet, Good Impression.
Robert's Comments: I was told that in the early years, South Carolina had formed there own Navy for the Charleston Harbor. This die variant with the two headed eagle could have been produced as early as the first 1802 pattern of a single headed eagle (Albert's NA 10-A's). The button's pattern depicts a two headed spread-eagle above an upright fouled anchor. On the eagle's chest is a small federal type shield. In the eagle's left talon is a small bundle of three arrows pointing upwards. In the right talon is a laurel or olive branch. The upright anchor's top ring has a rope or chain coming off the left hand-side of the ring, and goes under the slanted stock, and then over and under the shaft, and then hangs over the right fluke. Surrounding the eagle's is a semi circle of 15 six-pointed asterisk type stars. Since this is a gilded brass button, my belief would be that it was intended for officers. I don't believe it was made in any large quantities, most likely a limited issue.
Reverse Button Analysis: This is flat one-piece button with a loop shank. The shank is original, and intact.

Robert's Notes: The term, "Fouled Anchor" is usually applied to the state the anchor is in or pictured. The term is usually used when the anchor is hooked on some impediment on the ground, or has it's cable, rope, or chain wound around the stock or flukes.